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Easier on the wallet than Genoa while benefiting from some shared kitchen staff, Accanto does many things extremely well.

As amazing as the pozole is, Bibiano's true powers are apparent in his magical mole chicken.The wait can be interminably long, and the menu is occasionally preachy (this is, after all, the nation's self-proclaimed most sustainable seafood restaurant), but Bamboo Sushi offers so much, it's easy to forgive. Skip the seaweed salad and go for the , an artful sampling of seasonal pickled vegetables and fruits.Forget your California roll and try the Highway 35, named for the inland highway traversing the orchards of Hood River, that features an unlikely combination of Dungeness crab, , an ever-changing variety of sashimi and rice that's almost too beautifully arranged to eat.Many dishes here, from the fried artichokes to the grilled lamb chops (rough translation: "burn your fingers"), feature just the right touch of lemon and other colorful inclusions to remind diners why traditional country-style Italian food can and should be dynamic, with free-flowing wine to carry diners through the courses.The agnolotti on a recent visit were like little packets of summer shipped from Piedmont on a Maine lobster trawler: sweet mascarpone and ethereal corn that seemed to pop, in a bright sauce of cream and butter, brimming with fresh lobster.

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